TEXTILE FIBERS, DYES, FINISHES, AND PROCESSES
CONTENTS I FIBER THEORY, FORMATION, AND CHARACTERIZATION 1 FIBER THEORY AND FORMATION INTRODUCTION FIBER CLASSIFICATION FIBER PROPERTIES PRIMARY PROPERTIES FIBER UNIFORMITY FIBER STRENGTH AND FLEXIBILITY FIBER EXTENSIBILITY AND ELASTICITY FIBER COHESIVENESS SECONDARY PROPERTIES MOISTURE ABSORPTION AND DESORPTION FIBER RESILIENCY AND ABRASION RESISTANCE LUSTER RESISTANCE TO CHEMICALS IN THE ENVIRONMENT DENSITY THERMAL AND FLAMMABILITY CHARACTERISTICS PRIMARY FIBER PROPERTIES FROM AN ENGINEERING PERSPECTIVE FIBER FORMATION AND MORPHOLOGY POLYMER FORMATION FIBER SPINNING FIBER DRAWING AND MORPHOLOGY BULKING, TEXTURIZING, AND STAPLE FORMATION HEAT-SETTING TECHNIQUES AIR ENTANGLEMENT DIFFERENTIAL SETTING STAPLE FORMATION STRUCTURE-PROPERTY RELATIONSHIPS 2 FIBER IDENTIFICATION AND CHARACTERIZATION FIBER IDENTIFICATION MICROSCOPIC IDENTIFICATION SOLUBILITY HEATING AND BURNING CHARACTERISTICS DENSITY OR SPECIFIC GRAVITY STAINING STRUCTURAL, PHYSICAL, AND CHEMICAL CHARACTERIZATION OPTICAL AND ELECTRON MICROSCOPY ELEMENTAL AND END-GROUP ANALYSIS INFRARED SPECTROSCOPY ULTRAVIOLET-VISIBLE SPECTROSCOPY NUCLEAR MAGNETIC RESONANCE SPECTROSCOPY X-RAY DIFFRACTION THERMAL ANALYSIS MOLECULAR WEIGHT DETERMINATION MECHANICAL AND TENSILE PROPERTY MEASUREMENTS SPECIFIC GRAVITY ENVIRONMENTAL PROPERTIES CHEMICAL PROPERTIES END-USE PROPERTY CHARACTERIZATION CHARACTERISTICS RELATED TO IDENTITY, AESTHETICS, AND COMFORT CHARACTERISTICS RELATED TO DURABILITY AND WEAR PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL CHARACTERISTICS AND RESPONSE OF FIBER TO ITS ENVIRONMENTAL SURROUNDINGS II FIBER PROPERTIES 3 CELLULOSIC FIBERS COTTON STRUCTURAL PROPERTIES PHYSICAL PROPERTIES END-USE PROPERTIES FLAX PHYSICA I PROPERTIES OTHER NATURAL CELLULOSIC FIBERS HEMP JUTE RAMIE RAYON STRUCTURAL PROPERTIES AND FORMATION OF RAYON VISCOSE RAYON CUPRAMMONIUM RAYON SAPONIFIED CELLULOSE ACETATE 4 CELLULOSE ESTER FIBERS ACETATE AND TRIACETATE STRUCTURAL PROPERTIES AND FORMATION 5 PROTEIN FIBERS WOOL SILK OTHER NATURAL AND REGENERATED PROTEIN FIBERS MOHAIR CASHMERE LLAMA, ALPACA, AND VICUNA REGENERATED PROTEIN FIBERS PROTEIN-POLYACRYLONITRILE GRAH COPOLYMER 6 POLYAMIDE FIBERS ARAMID FIBERS OTHER POLYAMIDES QIANA NYLON BICONSTITUENT NYLON-POLYESTER 7 POLYESTER FIBERS POLYETHYLENE TEREPHTHALATE POLY-1,4-CYCLOHEXYLENEDIMETHYLENE TEREPHTHALATE OTHER POLYESTERS POLY-P-ETHYLENEOXYBENZOATE MODIFIED TEREPHTHALATE POLYESTERS 8 ACRYLIC FIBERS ACRYLIC MODACRYLIC OTHER ACRYLICS NYTRIL LASTRILE 9 POLYOLEFIN FIBERS POLYETHYLENE AND POLYPROPYLENE 10 VINYL FIBERS VINYON VINAL VINYON-VINAL MATRIX FIBER SARAN POLYTETRAFL UOROETHYLENE 11 ELASTOMERIC FIBERS RUBBER SPANDEX OTHER ELASTOMERIC FIBERS ANIDEX NYLON-SPANDEX BICONSTITUENT FIBER 12 MINERAL AND METALLIC FIBERS GLASS INORGANIC FIBERS ASBESTOS METALLIC FIBERS 13 MISCELLANEOUS FIBERS NOVALOID CARBON POLY-M-PHENYLENEDIBENZIMIDAZOLE (PBI) POLYIMIDE III YARN AND TEXTILE SUBSTRATE FORMATION 14 YARN FORMATION YARN FORMATION COTTON SYSTEM WOOLEN AND WORSTED SYSTEMS _ OTHER STAPLE SYSTEMS FILAMENT SYSTEMS OTHER YARN-FORMING SYSTEMS OPEN-END OR BREAK SPINNING FRICTION SPINNING AIR-VORTEX SPINNING FASCIATED SPINNING SELF-TWIST SPINNING COVERS PUN SPINNING INTEGRATED COMPOSITE YARN SPINNING TWISTJESS SYSTEMS 15 TEXTILE SUBSTRATE FORMATION PREPARATION WINDING WARPING AND SLASHING DRAWING-IN AND TYING-IN TEXTILE SUBSTRATE FORMATION WEAVING SHEDDING MECHANISMS FILL INSERTION SPECIAL WEAVING METHODS KNITTING WARP KNITTING FILL (WEFT) KNITTING TUFTING AND PILE FORMATION NONWOVEN FORMATION MECHANICAL BONDING OR ENTANGLEMENT OF NONWOVENS STITCHING OR STITCH BONDING SELF BONDING ADHESIVE BONDING COMPOSITE FORMATION IV PREPARATION, DYEING, AND FINISHING PROCESSES 16 PREPARATION AND DRYING DRYING 17 COLOR, DYES, DYEING AND PRINTING COLOR THEORY DYES AND DYE CLASSIFICATION DYES CONTAINING ANIONIC FUNCTIONAL GROUPS ACID DYES DIRECT DYES MORDANT DYES REACTIVE DYES DYES CONTAINING CATIONIC GROUPS (BASIC DYES) DYES REQUIRING CHEMICAL REACTION BEFORE APPLICATION VAT DYES SULFUR DYES AZOIC DYES SPECIAL COLORANT CLASSES DISPERSE DYES SOLVENT DYES PIGMENTS NATURAL DYES DYEING OF BLENDS APPLICATION METHODS AND FACTORS AFFECTING DYEING DYES APPLIED TO FIBER CLASSES DYES FOR CELL ULOSIC FIBERS DYES FOR CELLULOSE ESTER FIBERS DYES FOR PROTEIN FIBERS DYES FOR POLYAMIDE FIBERS DYES FOR POLYESTER FIBERS DYES FOR ACRYLIC FIBERS DYES FOR POLYOLEFIN FIBERS DYES FOR VINYL FIBERS DYES FOR ELASTOMERIC FIBERS DYES FOR MINERAL AND METALLIC FIBERS 18 FINISHES AND FINISHING PHYSICAL FINISHES AND FINISHING OPTICAL FINISHES BRUSHING AND NAPPING SOFTENING AND SHEARING COMPACTING CHEMICAL FINISHES AND FINISHING FINISHES AFFECTING AESTHETICS, COMFORT, AND SERVICE HYDROPHILIC AND SOIL RELEASE FINISHES SOFTENERS AND ABRASION RESISTANT FINISHES STIFFENING AND WEIGHTING AGENTS LAMINATING AGENTS CREASE RESISTANT AND STABILIZING FINISHES PROTECTIVE FINISHES PHOTO PROTECTIVE AGENTS AND ANTIOXIDANTS OIL AND WATER REPELLENTS ANTISTATS BIOLOGICALLY ACTIVE FINISHES FLAME RETARDANTS FINISHES APPLIED TO FIBER CLASSES FINISHES FOR CELLULOSICS CREASE RESISTANT AND AUXILIARY FINISHES OIL AND WATER REPELLENT FINISHES BIOLOGICALLY PROTECTIVE FINISHES FLAME RETARDANT FINISHES FINISHES FOR CELLULOSE ESTER FIBERS FINISHES FOR PROTEIN FIBERS CHEMICAL SETTING SHRINKPROOFING AND WRINKLE RESISTANCE FINISHES MOTHPROOFING TREATMENTS WEIGHTING TREATMENTS FLAME RETARDANT TREATMENTS FINISHES FOR POLYAMIDE FIBERS PHOTOPROTECTIVE AGENTS AND ANTIOXIDANTS ANTISTATIC AGENTS FINISHES FOR POLYESTER FIBERS PHOTOPROTECTIVE FINISHES AND ANTIOXIDANTS ANTISTATIC FINISHES SOIL RELEASE FINISHES ANTIPILLING FINISHES OTHER FINISHES FINISHES FOR ACRYLIC FIBERS FINISHES FOR POLYOLEFIN FIBERS FINISHES FOR VINYL FIBERS FINISHES FOR ELASTOMERIC FIBERS FINISHES FOR MINERAL AND METALLIC FIBERS V TEXTILE MAINTENANCE 19 TEXTILE SOILING AND SOIL REMOVAL TEXTILE SOILS DETERGENCY AND SURFACTANTS DETERGENCY AND SOIL REMOVAL SURFACTANTS SOAP ANIONIC SURFACTANTS NONIONIC SURFACTANTS CATIONIC SURFACTANTS AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANTS LAUNDERING AND LAUNDRY FORMULATIONS LAUNDERING LAUNDRY FORMULATION BUILDERS ANTI-SOIL-REDEPOSITION AGENTS CORROSION INHIBITORS FOAM MODIFIERS ELECTROLYTES AND FILLERS BLEACHES AND FLUORESCENT BRIGHTENERS GERMICIDES PERFUME FABRIC SOFTENER STARCHES ENZYMES DRYCLEANING