THE INTERACTION OF OCEAN WAVES AND WIND

By CHARLOTTE CLARK

CONTENTS INTRODUCTION THE ENERGY BALANCE OF DEEP-WATER OCEAN WAVES PRELIMINARIES LINEAR THEORY WAVE GROUPS THE ENERGY BALANCE EQUATION KINEMATIC PART OF THE ENERGY BALANCE EQUATION EMPIRICAL LAWS FOR WAVE GROWTH SUMMARY OF RESULTS ON THE GENERATION OF OCEAN WAVES BY WIND LINEAR THEORY OF WIND-WAVE GENERATION NUMERICAL SOLUTION AND COMPARISON WITH OBSERVATIONS E?ECTS OF TURBULENCE QUASI-LINEAR THEORY OF WIND-WAVE GENERATION PARAMETRIZATION OF QUASI-LINEAR THEORY SUMMARY OF CONCLUSIONS NON-LINEAR WAVE-WAVE INTERACTIONS AND WAVE-DISSIPATION EVOLUTION EQUATION FOR DEEP-WATER WAVES DERIVED FROM A HAMILTONIAN FINITE AMPLITUDE E?ECTS ON DISPERSION RELATION AND THE INSTABILITY OF ?NITE AMPLITUDE DEEP-WATER WAVES NONLINEAR SCHR¨ODINGER EQUATION AND LONG-TIME BEHAVIOUR OF THE BENJAMIN-FEIR INSTABILITY BEYOND THE ZAKHAROV EQUATION: ?VE-WAVE INTERACTIONS STATISTICAL APPROACH TO NONLINEAR INTERACTIONS DISCUSSION OF THE ASSUMPTIONS UNDERLYING THE STATISTICAL APPROACH CONSEQUENCES OF FOUR-WAVE INTERACTIONS PARAMETRIZATION OF NONLINEAR TRANSFER WAVE DISSIPATION APPENDIX: NONLINEAR TRANSFER COE?CIENTS WAVE FORECASTING AND WIND-WAVE INTERACTION NUMERICS OF THE WAVE PREDICTION MODEL SIMULATION OF SIMPLE CASES IMPACT OF SEA STATE ON THE ATMOSPHERE IMPACT OF SEA STATE ON THE OCEAN CIRCULATION VERI?CATION OF ANALYSIS AND FORECAST