AN INTRODUCTION TO OCEANOGRAPHY
CONTENTS INTRODUCTION TO ESTUARY STUDIES WHY TO STUDY ESTUARIES? ORIGIN AND GEOLOGICAL AGE DE?NITION AND TERMINOLOGY POLICY AND ACTIONS TO ESTUARY PRESERVATION REFERENCES CIRCULATION AND MIXING IN ESTUARIES HYDROLOGIC PROCESSES: OCEAN-DRAINAGE BASIN-ESTUARY TEMPORAL AND SPATIAL SCALES OF SEA-LEVEL VARIATIONS DIMENSIONAL ANALYSIS APPLIED TO EQUATIONS AND PROCESSES WHAT GENERATES THE CIRCULATION AND MIXING IN THE ESTUARY? TIDAL WAVE PROPAGATION IN AN ESTUARY NON-DIMENSIONAL NUMBERS MIXING AND ENTRAINMENT ESTUARY CLASSI?CATION GEOMORPHOLOGIC TYPES OF ESTUARIES COASTAL PLAIN FJORD BAR-BUILT (OR COASTAL LAGOONS) TECTONIC, DELTAS AND RIAS SALINITY STRATI?CATION SALT WEDGE ESTUARY (TYPE A) MODERATELY OR PARTIALLY MIXED (TYPE B) VERTICALLY WELL-MIXED (TYPES C AND D) CLASSI?CATION DIAGRAMS ESTUARINE ZONE COASTAL LAGOONS PHYSICAL PROPERTIES AND EXPERIMENTS IN ESTUARIES RESEARCH PLANNING CURRENT MEASUREMENTS, TIDE AND HYDROGRAPHIC PROPERTIES CURRENT VELOCITY TIDE HYDROGRAPHIC PROPERTIES DENSITY AND EQUATIONS OF STATE REDUCTION AND ANALYSIS OF OBSERVATIONAL DATA: FLUX AND TRANSPORT OF PROPERTIES DECOMPOSITION OF VELOCITY VERTICAL VELOCITY PRO?LES TEMPORAL AND SPATIAL AVERAGES REDUCTION AND ANALYSIS OF TEMPORAL DATA SERIES ISOPLETHS METHOD AND MEAN VERTICAL PRO?LES FLUX AND TRANSPORT OF PROPERTIES ADVECTIVE SALT TRANSPORT COMPONENTS ADVECTIVE CONCENTRATION TRANSPORT TIDAL PRISM DETERMINATION MIXING PROCESSES IN ESTUARIES: SIMPLIFYED METHODS FUNDAMENTAL CONCEPTS TIDAL PRISM SEGMENTED TIDAL PRISM MODEL HIGH TIDE FRESH WATER BALANCE LOW TIDE FRESH WATER BALANCE FRESH WATER BALANCE DURING THE TIDAL CYCLE CONCENTRATION ESTIMATES OF A CONSERVATIVE POLLUTANT WATER MASS EXCHANGE AT THE ESTUARY MOUTH MIXING DIAGRAMS HYDRODYNAMIC FORMULATION: MASS AND SALT CONSERVATION EQUATIONS STATE OF A VOLUME ELEMENT MASS AND SALT CONSERVATION EQUATIONS INTEGRAL FORMULAS: MASS AND SALT CONSERVATION EQUATIONS VOLUME INTEGRATION BI-DIMENSIONAL FORMULATION: VERTICAL INTEGRATION BI-DIMENSIONAL FORMULATION: LATERAL INTEGRATION ONE-DIMENSIONAL FORMULATION: INTEGRATION IN AN AREA SIMPLIFYED FORMS OF THE CONTINUITY EQUATION APPLICATION OF THE ONE-DIMENSIONAL CONTINUITY EQUATION APPLICATION OF THE ONE-DIMENSIONAL SALT CONSERVATION EQUATION STEADY-STATE CONCENTRATION DISTRIBUTION OF A NON- CONSERVATIVE SUBSTANCE HYDRODYNAMIC FORMULATION: EQUATIONS OF MOTION AND APPLICATIONS EQUATIONS OF MOTION BOUNDARY AND INTEGRAL CONDITIONS BI-DIMENSIONAL FORMULATIONS: VERTICAL AND LATERAL INTEGRATION VERTICAL INTEGRATION CROSS-SECTION INTEGRATION ONE-DIMENSIONAL FORMULATION SIMPLIFYED FORMULATION AND APPLICATION VELOCITY GENERATE BY THE RIVER DISCHARGE VELOCITY GENERATE BY THE WIND STRESS SHALLOW WATER TIDAL CURRENT AND PHASE VELOCITY PERIODIC STRATI?CATION TIDAL GENERATE: POTENTIAL ENERGY ANOMALY CIRCULATION AND MIXING IN STEADY-STATE MODELS: SALT WEDGE ESTUARY HYPOTHESIS AND THEORETICAL FORMULATION CIRCULATION AND SALT-WEDGE INTRUSION THE UPPER LAYER THE LOWER LAYER (SALT-WEDGE) VERTICAL VELOCITY PRO?LE SALT-WEDGE INTRUSION LENGTH THEORY AND EXPERIMENT CIRCULATION AND MIXING IN STEADY-STATE MODELS: WELL-MIXED ESTUARY HYDRODYNAMIC FORMULATION AND HYPOTHESYS SOLUTION WITH MAXIMUM BOTTOM FRICTION VERTICAL VELOCITY PRO?LE: MODERATE BOTTOM FRICTION THEORY AND OBSERVATIONAL DATA LONGITUDINAL SALINITY SIMULATION ANALYTICAL SIMULATION BASIC EQUATIONS: UPPER AND LOWER BOUNDARY CONDITIONS AND INTEGRAL BOUNDARY CONDITION BAROTROPIC PRESSURE GRADIENT, WIND STRESS AND MAXIMUM BOTTOM FRICTION BAROTROPIC PRESSURE GRADIENT, WIND STRESS, RIVER DISCHARGE AND MAXIMUM BOTTOM FRICTION BAROTROPIC PRESSURE GRADIENT, RIVER DISCHARGE, WIND AND MODERATE BOTTOM FRICTION BAROTROPIC AND BAROCLINIC PRESSURE GRADIENT, RIVER DISCHARGE, WIND STRESS AND BOTTOM FRICTION PROPORTIONAL TO THE SQUARE OF THE VELOCITY VERTICAL SALINITY PRO?LE CIRCULATION AND MIXING IN STEADY-STATE MODELS: PARTIALLY MIXED ESTUARY PHYSICAL-MATHEMATICAL FORMULATION HYDRODYNAMIC SOLUTION: MAXIMUM BOTTOM FRICTION HYDRODYNAMIC SOLUTION: MODERATE BOTTOM FRICTION THEORETICAL VERTICAL SALINITY PRO?LE THEORETICAL AND EXPERIMENTAL VELOCITY AND SALINITY PRO?LES LONGITUDINAL AND VERTICAL VELOCITY PRO?LES VALIDATION OF EXPERIMENTAL VELOCITY AND SALINITY VERTICAL PRO?LES HANSEN AND RATTRAY’S SIMILARITY SOLUTION ESTUARY CLASSI?CATION: STRATI?CATION-CIRCULATION DIAGRAM HANSEN AND RATTRAY’S VELOCITY AND SALINITY VERTICAL PRO?LES: RESULTS AND VALIDATION SALINITY INTRUSION SECONDARY CIRCULATION NUMERICAL HYDRODYNAMIC MODELLING BRIEFY OUTLINE ON NUMERICAL MODELS THE FINITE DIFFERENCE METHOD EXPLICIT AND IMPLICIT SCHEMES THE VOLUME METHOD OF FINITE DIFFERENCE A SIMPLE UNIDIMENSIONAL NUMERIC MODEL EXPLICIT SOLUTION IMPLICIT SOLUTION THE BLUMBERG’S BI-DIMENSIONAL MODEL RESULTS ON NUMERICAL MODELLING: CARAVELAS-PERUÍPE RIVERS ESTUARINE SYSTEM